Removing Old Drum Finish / Wrap
© JamminSam. All rights reserved.

(Continued from Getting Started.)

1. Remove all lugs, hardware, & eyelets. You will need to decide whether you want to use your old eyelet, or replace it with one of ours (which we recommend).
   
   Methods to Remove & save Original Eyelet
   

   1. Use a "round bastard" file (preferably 8") to grind down the back of the eyelet– file from the outside inward, filing off the backside (inner edge) of the eyelet. It only takes about a minute to file through the eyelet's backside" only at the center rear edge. Once filed, take a punch shaped object (or wooden dowel, or mechanic's socket– the same size as the hole), and from the inside, carefully tap/work out the eyelet without damaging it or the shell.
   2. Use a drill and the right sized bit (larger then the eyelet diameter) to drill out the back of the eyelet, then work out the eyelet as describe in point 1 above.

   *** Do not use pliers or a screwdriver to remove an eyelet if you are trying to save it (even if the eyelet is half way out)– they will damage it.

   Methods to Remove & Discard Original Eyelet (so one of our eyelets can be used):
   

   1. Use a small cutting blade (used for small/mini hack saws– wrapping both ends with tape to protect your hands), passed through the barrel of the eyelet, to cut the length of it. After cutting, this will easily allow the eyelet to be collapsed.
   2. Use a jig/saber saw (w/ blade for metal) to carefully cut eyelet. Be careful not to cut into the wood (only cut the barrel of the eyelet, not the entire flange/lip).
   3. Use a jig/saber saw blade for metal (3" or longer) in a handle (handle used for a reciprocating saw blade for close cutting) to cut eyelet– use a "T" style blade.
   4. Use a "Dremel Tool" w/ a cutting attachment to cut the eyelet apart.

   These methods will weaken the eyelet (w/ 1 to 2 cuts), making is easier to remove it.

   Important Note:

   • 3/8" Standard eyelets are available in chrome, gold, and black.
   • 7/16" Machined eyelets (w/ nut) are available in chrome and gold (to be used in vintage badges, or a closer factory replacement).
   • ½" Cast eyelets (extra large) are available in chrome, gold, and black.
   NOTE:
   To remove badges that are glued down– use fishing line or dental floss to separate the badge from the old wrap or shell. Use a sawing motion (pulling the line back and forth) between the badge and shell, until the badge totally separates. Some heat applied to the badge (no hotter than a hair dryer) may help in the separation process. This procedure should keep the badge in pristine condition. Another way to is to carefully remove the old wrap, then using scissors cut around the badge, leaving the old wrap under it and re-glue badge-and-wrap to the new wrap.
   1. Next, remove the old plastic finish. This can be accomplished by working a flat blade screwdriver between the shell and the old finish and prying up to break the old finish. After it is broken all the way across, try to peel the finish off the drum; sometimes a putty knife is very helpful (see below note). Some finishes may not come off easy (sometimes the case w/ older USA made drums– especially "Rogers"). If the finish is very difficult to remove, or large pieces of wood are coming off with the material, you will need to use some heat to remove the material. The best way to remove a difficult finish is with a heat gun or a small propane torch (available at discount hardware stores for usually under $20). Heat a small section of the material, then work it off with a putty knife (approximately 3" wide). Be very careful when doing this because some of the older finishes are very flammable. Some finishes will catch on fire immediately (especially the case with older USA made drums). Have a very wet cloth handy, so if it does burn, the beginning small flame can be put out quickly. Use Extreme Caution! Only do this outdoors, on concrete, and away from anything that may burn or explode. Have a garden hose ready in case it does burn and the flames get out of control. BE VERY CAREFUL! Even a small drum can create a terrific flame. (Note: We suggest no one under 18 years old use any type of propane torch without adult supervision.) If the material does not burn, it will melt or become soft. When the material is soft, use a putty knife to scrape/pry the heated material off the shell. Remember, just heat a small section, pry off the old material with a putty knife, then repeat heating another section. Most drums made in Asia (Japan, China, etc.) are only glued at the seam, and heat will not be needed to remove finishes from these drums. It is best to try to remove the finish from the drum(s) first (US made) to see if a heat gun is even needed. (Note: Painted and lacquer finishes do not need to be removed.)
      
      
      NOTE:
      It is best to separate the finish from the shell with a putty knife instead of peeling back the finish; this method reduces the risk of wood coming up.
   2. The next step is to prepare the shell for the new drum material. If the old material was glued on, inspect the shell to determine if the old contact cement needs to be removed. It may not be necessary to remove all the old glue/contact cement from the shell if the appearance of the glue is even and hard (like varnish on furniture). Most of the time, very little of the old contact cement will need to be removed, but if the appearance of the shell is rough due to glue (or a heavy buildup), most of it will have to be removed. And if the glue has a wet appearance or feel; it is best to remove all of it also. Old glue can be removed with paint and glue remover products found in most hardware stores.
      
      
      Caution:
      Use a proper mask when working with these products– most are harmful to breathe.
      Note:
      We suggest using water-based glue removal products– they are friendlier to your health. Solvent-based glue removing products can hurt your new drum wrap– if that is only available, call for directions.)
      If a glue striper/remover is used, clean residue off (as recommended– see below) and allow shell(s) to sit bare 1-3 days, so any remaining chemicals have a chance to leave the wood.
      
      We believe it is best to sand on your shell(s) as little as possible. The more you sand, the more roundness is sanded off the shell– possibly creating areas that the material will not lay flat. Never use an electric sander to remove old glue- use glue remover products to remove old glue. After using glue removing products, clean any remaining residue with a piece of medium sandpaper in your hand. Next, use a metal straightedge to determine if any high points are present on the shell, usually around mounting holes. If any are present, we suggest using the metal straightedge to scrape them down even with the rest of the shell. Fill all unwanted holes before applying your new wrap
      
      If the old material was taped on, little or no old glue will need to be removed. Fill all unwanted holes and use a metal straightedge (as described above) to determine if any high points are present on the shell (usually around the holes). Use the straightedge to scrape any high points down.
      
   3. Next, take the piece of new drum material and wrap it around the now ready shell. Hold the material tight against the shell, and make sure the material is the right width (depth) for the shell between the bearing edges (usually about a 1/8"– ¼" of wood needs to be showing at each sound edge for most drums), and there is 1½"– 2" overlap of the material at the seam.
      
      
      NOTE:
      If this appears incorrect, call us before proceeding.
      
      Inspect the material on the shell, and make sure that the material lays flat against it. Make sure that there are no high points or any wood pieces on the shell that would keep the material from laying flat on the shell. If any are found, sand/remove those places.
      
      
      NOTE:
      If sanding is necessary, do so without taking the roundness off the shell. Sometimes a metal straight edge used as a scraper is very effective in taking high points off the shell.
      
      
      NOTE:
      Every piece of material (unless ordered differently) has tape on each end of the material. As already stated, any drum larger than 16" (head size) has two pieces of drum material to wrap it. Any drum that is 16" or less is done in one piece. Start with the smallest drum to recover, and do that drum "start to finish" before proceeding to the other drums.

This article continues with ... Applying New Wrap to the Shell

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